Brooklyn dining listings


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Look, the Borough of Kings can be shoddy with its Mexican food.

Needless to say we were nervous to order the chicken enchiladas at the new 213 restaurant — expecting some tasteless, bland concoction of meat and sauce that tends to work better as a hangover cure than an attempt at fine dining. These lame excuses for Mexican cuisine line the streets from Williamsburg to Sunset Park.

But that notion was swiftly upended as soon as the fork hit the mouth: not only can you actually taste the meat, but each bite offers a handful of colorful flavors that owner Francisco Acatitla brought straight from his hometown kitchen in Mexico City.

The zest in the red mole sauce alone is a guilty pleasure. It’s sweet and spicy, yet not overbearing — a delicious compliment to an array of cheeses, juicy chicken and handmade guacamole stuffed inside. The fact that a generous smothering of the stuff didn’t make the tortillas soggy was a nice surprise, too (we know, we’re jaded).

It’s basically a plate-licker, folks. It’s filling, the price is easily worth it ($8) and it’s backed up by a passionate staff that stray far from the spot’s former tenant, El Pitayo, which was nothing but average.

Order one of the refreshing, citrus Tanteo margaritas with real blue agave as a meal-capper, and you’ll officially be involved in Brooklyn’s newest Mexican secret.

Where: 213 Smith St. between Baltic and Butler street
Tel: (718) 625–2616
How much: Entrees: $5-$12
Visa Mastercard
Features: Cheap | Bar | Delivery
Updated Nov. 2, 2011
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